Before, by William Hogarth
Aphrodisiacs in the 18th Century
In this month of love, what better subject to look at but that of aphrodisiacs?
Aphrodisiacs have a long and celebrated history in our culture. Most of them centre around different types of food. In the 18th century this was no different. In an age where everyone had some sort of venereal infection is there any wonder that they would turn to food to counteract some of the affects?
Referring to the ancient Roman writer, Galen, cooks took his advise to use those foods which were "wet and moist", "long and stiff" or "windy (causing flatulence) and hot". some of these foods included truffles, vanilla, chili, pepper, asparagus, oysters, celery, carrots, mustard, anise, nettles, champagne and eel.
The poet, John Gay, 1685-1732 wrote "To a Young Lady, with some Lampreys". The poem is about a poor poet who bestows a gift of lamprey eels to his lover. Her maiden aunt dissaproves with the following lament:
Lamprey's a most immodest diet:
You'll neither wake nor sleep in quiet.
Should I tonight eat sago-cream,
'Twould make me blush to tell my dream:
If I eat lobster, 'tis so warming,
That every man I see looks charming.
.........
The shepherdess, who lives on salad,
To cool her youth, controls her palate.
The poem goes on to commend the Aunt for her warnings, as it should be the look of one's lover which drives one's passion alone, to which the poet agrees wholeheartedly.
If food didn't work, one could always resort to Spanish Fly, the dried and ground remains of the emerald green Blister Beetle. The smallest amount could cause even the most flacid of men to rise to the occassion. Unfortunately, the difference between the amount which could "stiffen one's resolve" or kill you outright wasn't much. Often Spanish Fly was mixed into food, but it was also available as a candy. A small amount used as an ingredient in Pastilles Richelieu, rumoured to be used by the Marquis de Sade. Spanish Fly was used by Kings and commoners alike. It is no longer available for use as an aphrodisiac.
Instead, I suggest you try this receipt if your passion needs priming, from "The Horizon Cookbook, Menus and Recipes, Vol II, Wendy Buehr, 1968, pg 589
Celery Fritters
Orignally from "Adam's Luxury, and Eve's Cookery: or the Kitchen-Garden Displayed", Anon. 1744
1 bunch celery, cut into 2" pieces
2 eggs, separated
1/4 cup milk
Salt & pepper
1 cup flour
Vegetable shortening for frying
Cook the celery in boiling salted water until tender but still firm, about 10 mins. Drain well. Beat the egg yolks with the milk, season with salt and pepper, and whisk into the flour. Beat the whites stiff and fold into the milk and flour. Dip the celery in the batter and fry, a few pieces at a time, in the fat heated to 360 degrees - about 5 mins or until puffed and golden.